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flooky's blog

8:36 PM on 03.18.2010

Break Time at Work Spent Right...


1:48 AM on 08.21.2009

Clear DS...

So I modded my DS to have a clear housing...

I never really thought it was the coolest thing in the world but when I posted it in IRC people went bat shit sorta.
And by people I mean Vexed_Alex.

So I guess I'll unveil to you all my grainy shots of my clear DS taken with my N800 tablet....

God that is a terrible camera attached to that little fucker, sorry about the quality I'll hopefully update tomorrow with better...clearer pictures. BADUMCHEE!

Well I've had it like that for about 2 years... I think... I don't really remember when it happened actually.

I just remember the screams of horror when I couldn't get the screen to turn on for like an hour after I put it all back together. Then I checked all the connections and found a few loose ones and fixed it.

I seriously DO NOT suggest you do this to your DS unless you know what your doing it took me for fucking ever to get the springs to sit correctly in the left and right buttons.   read

9:40 PM on 01.03.2009


Ok seriously I'll tell ya what happened to lil ol me. I started up school in the fall and I got back to hanging with the good old gamers club, the mess of geeky ass people that made me feel normal(and thats saying something coming from me).

But it got me back into my nintendo love fest that I thought I had buried in the back yard like my hamster charlie, never to arise again. Boy was I wrong.

I acquired a Gameboy color from a friend for free and would compulsively attempt to beat 122 on tetris(NO NOT THE DIRTY KIND OF TETRIS). I popped in my old links awakening had a running through a meadow spinning with the gameboy type of euphoria from playing it.

Then I "accidentally" stumbled upon my copy of Zelda Ocarina of Time. I became obsessed with Zelda games real bad after I remembered how much fucking fun they are...and how much I hate Navi...

(Fat Link + Needlepoint...lolwat?)

It started with the Ocarina...then I was at a friends house and saw his roommates phantom hour glass game..just laying there...unloved...unused...unplayed....I COULDN'T RESIST! IT WAS SCREAMING FOR ME! SO I STOLE THAT SHIT GOOD!

Then I was so impressed by the awesomeness of it and I loved the game so much I got Wind Waker for Christmas and I'm completely hooked.

So basically don't be surprised if you find me in an ally some where smoking out of a Ocarina shaped bong or shooting up with a wind waker looking syringe.


4:02 PM on 12.30.2008

You may be wondering where I've been...

The simple answer is...

The crawling spleen appeared at my front door a while back and like is sleeping on my couch and stuff and like...he won't get a job or take a bath or even have the decency to lay down some paper before he plops down on the couch. It is just completely soaked in his partial man juices.
Long story short, I fell in with a bad crowd.

8:52 AM on 02.03.2008

Its my birthday!


I'm the happiest geek eva!

Hopefully this means I can finish the dreamcast guitar faster and move on to making guitars for others.

10:11 PM on 01.26.2008

Video Update: Dreamcast Guitar.

Ok so I made a HORRIBLE TERRIBLE FUCKING EPICLY BAD video of the dreamcast guitar putting out sound. Its realllllly out of tune, I just wanted to prove the fucker actually works.
Please don't make fun of my stubby midget sausage fingers -.-
[embed]66994:7347[/embed]   read

9:31 AM on 01.21.2008


OK so most of you don't know I started college this year. Well that shit is a pain in my ass! I had NO time to work on the guitar.
Yesterday I figured I'd take another look at it, weeeeeeeell I GOT IT TO FUCKING WORK! So all I have to do now is balance the neck and it will be complete and functioning.
If I can find some one to play it (PLAY IT WELL!) and a video camera you'll finally get the long awaited video.

4:51 PM on 10.25.2007

Ron Work Man in about 30 years...

I'm back! And in this post I found the most steller thing ever!(YES I JUST SAID STELLER!)


I am convince this guy is Ron Workman. In 30 years Ron will create a time machine and come back in time to freak me the fuck out on Youtube. Sure the voice sounds different but in the future the atmosphere is fill with gases that fuck up your voice...yeah...thats it...Its ok if you don't believe me but look at the man it must be him! I guess I'm more insane then I think I am.... But the guy has a web site its I dunno man...

Wow I'm gunna get alot of shit comments for this one...   read

8:54 AM on 09.02.2007

DIY guide to:Gamer Guys Sex Toys!!

Ok, Im going to be fair and give the guys a little somein' somein'. You've probably already seen one of these but for all you guys that spend hours sitting at the computer playing your WOW or planning out the next LARP in your back yard. This is for you.

Make Your Own Flashlight Sex Toy


* Empty potato chip can
* Foam rubber (approx. 9”x9”x1” or 9”x18”x1/2”)
* Condom
* 1 ¼” O-ring
* Scissors
* Marking pens

Step 1

Empty the chips out of the can. Lay out the foam and trim to fit the length of the container if necessary. The length of the foam can be up to a half inch longer than the length of the can.

step 2

Unroll the condom and drop the O-ring inside. If you use a lubricated condom, turn it inside out first, so the lube is on the inner surface.

Step 3

Lay the condom along the foam with the open end slightly above the edge, and mark across where the O-ring lays in the condom. Cut the foam into two pieces along this line.

Step 4

Roll up the smaller piece of foam and push it into the bottom of the can. Lay the condom against the shorter edge of the other piece of foam so that the tip and the O-ring are hanging over one end and the open top of the condom is hanging over the other. Roll up the foam with the condom inside. The O-ring should be flat against one end of the foam roll, and the top of the condom should be sticking out of the center of the other end.

Step 5

With the scissors, make a nick in the tip of the condom, just enough so some air can get through. Insert the foam roll into the chip container, making sure the open end of the condom stays above the top of the foam. Leave about ½” of foam above the rim of the can.

Step 6

Use a nail or screwdriver to poke a small hole on the side of the can near the bottom.

Step 7


Step 8

Carefully stretch the condom around the rim of the can and over the lip so it covers the foam. The lip of the can will hold the condom in place.

HEY LOOK YOU CAN EVEN USE A PRINGLES CAN! ya thats so you can switch it up -.- sigh this is highly disturbing I'm sorry.

In all seriousness theres much better things to do with condoms and potato chips...
But hey at least your not this desprate...

Eh I think I have to go puke a little in my mouth after that one. And take my pup optimus prime for a walk so she can eat some grass.   read

11:13 PM on 09.01.2007

DIY guide to:Gamer Girl Sex Toys!!

Part 1:

I stumbled upon a site called DONT ASK HOW I FOUND IT I DONT EVEN KNOW! But I was lurking around it and found some gamer style sex toys you galz can make, as you all know I'm a DIYer myself but this is going beyond my morals of evil scientist code. First off I'm just giving the instructions off the site and I'm not making them so do not ask.:)
HERE WE GO-mario voice-

Joystick Vibrator

Materials and tools

* Atari 2600 joystick controller
* 1 self-contained silver bullet miniature vibrator with click switch
* 3 AG13 button cell batteries (these should come with the vibrator)
* Dremel tool with small saw and/or small grinder/sander attachments
* 22-gauge stranded connector wire
* Solder and soldering iron
* 1 battery contact (scavenged from another broken vibrator)
* Silicone household sealant
* Thin cardboard
* Wire cutter and wire stripping tool
* Scissors and Utility knife

Step 1: Disassembly

Remove the four screws from the base of the controller and open the case. Set aside the screws and the small spring that encircles the center post of the controller button. After removing the top of the joystick, pull the circuit board free and clip the wires leading to the outgoing jack. Extract the cord from the case and discard it and the circuit board, or save for other projects.

Step 2: Modifying the bottom of the case

The top part of the vibrator, which houses the switch, needs to be seated directly below the controller button, so this corner of the case must be cleared. Use the Dremel tool with the small saw attachment to cut down the center support post that is located under the button and cut out a section of the strut of plastic on the floor of the case next to it to make enough room for the vibrator top. Make your cuts flush with the bottom of the case so the vibrator switch will sit flat. (If you don’t have a saw attachment, you can use a grinder for most of these modifications, although it will have to be small to get into some tight corners.)

The side of the screw housing (to the upper left of the support post in the photo) needs to be cut away to allow the vibrator switch to be centered beneath the controller button. Through trial and error, we ended up cutting about 2mm vertically off the side of the housing, all the way to the base. Be sure not to cut all the way through the housing to the center hole, as this may compromise the integrity of the case.

This is a tight corner, so use a light touch with the saw, otherwise you could end up unintentionally hacking up the inside of the case or cutting through the side or bottom of the case.

Sand all surfaces reasonably smooth with the Dremel grinding/sanding tip. The most important thing is that the bottom of the case where the vibrator switch will be seated is smooth, level, and free of burrs or irregularities. The switch has to line up and be centered, so a small flaw can put it out of whack.

Use the Dremel saw to saw off the tip of the support post in the very center of the bottom of the case. Four or five millimeters is probably enough. The cut should go straight across, providing a flat surface to support the battery contact, but it doesn’t have to be perfectly level. The support post is surrounded by vertical struts. Cut a couple of these away to form a flat vertical surface to rest the wire/battery contact against.

Step 3: Modifying the top of the joystick

Now that you’ve made room for the switch, you’ll make room for the body of the vibrator. Remove the white plastic toggle from the inside of the joystick. It should pull out easily. Using the Dremel saw, cut all the way through the toggle about 1cm above where the vertical ribs start. You should be left with a piece about 5cm or 2” long. Reinsert it into the rubber joystick housing. The vibrator will be pushed up into the space beneath it.

While we’re working on the top half of the case, you’ll also need to trim about 2mm all the way around the edge of the cylinder that the controller push button slides through when it’s in place. The bottom edge of the cylinder needs to be shaved down so the push button can rest up a little higher when it’s on top of the vibrator switch, which you’re going to be positioning underneath it. Use the Dremel to take off about 2mm, and make sure it’s level by reinserting the push button and seeing that the lower lip is flush all the way around.

Step 4: Prepping the vibrator

Open up the vibrator and remove the top and discard the red plastic protective strip (if it has one – this is to keep the vibrator from being accidentally activated before purchase) and remove and discard the small black rubber O ring on at the base of the screw threads.

On the inside of the lid, locate the positive battery contact (the metal prong in the center). On the body of the vibrator, locate the negative battery contact (the metal strip coming up the inside of the case and peeking up just above the batteries.

Before you start soldering, you’ll need to do some prep work on the vibrator top (the switch housing). Turn it upside down to expose the battery contact and switch circuitry and use the Dremel saw or cutting tool to make two small notches in the rim of the vibrator case. The connector wires are going to be going through these notches, so make sure they’re wide enough and deep enough that this part can sit flat on the bottom of the controller case with the wires in the grooves. (Although the vibrator case looks metallic, it’s actually plastic and cuts quite easily.) Make one notch so it lines up with one end of the positive battery contact and the other notch in line with one of the small brass grommets 90 degrees on either side. (See photo)

Step 5: Wiring it up

Solder the negative lead wire to the negative contact on the body of the vibrator. Use a length of wire at least 6”. Make sure that the bead of solder is on the outside of the case; if it’s on the inside of the case, it may interfere with changing the vibrator batteries in the future.

Take the free end of the negative lead wire, bend the exposed wire to a 90 degree angle and insert it directly into one of the brass grommets on either side of the positive battery contact on the inside of the vibrator lid. Rest the insulated portion of the wire in the notch in the side of the case. (We recommend securing the wire in the notch at this point with a small dab of silicone sealant. Make sure you don’t get any on the contact or exposed wire itself, as this could mess with the conductivity. Let it set just enough to hold before soldering.) Apply a small bead of solder to secure the end of the lead wire. Try not to melt the circuit board or the vibrator case (it is made out of plastic, after all).

Solder a battery contact onto one end of your positive lead wire (again, use at least 6” or more to give yourself room to maneuver), then solder the other end directly onto the positive battery contact, first lining the wire up so it rests in the corresponding notch in the lid. Leave the end with the battery contact free for now.

You now have the two ends of the negative contacts soldered into place, and one end of the positive lead soldered with the positive battery contact free. You can test the circuit by pressing the positive battery contact against the batteries in the case (be sure it contacts the batteries only, and not the rim of the vibrator case, as this also completes a circuit and will turn the vibrator on). If you click the vibrator switch on and off, it should work.

Step 6: Putting in the vibrator

It’s time to start assembling the joystick vibrator. Get the silicone sealant and squirt a generous amount around the inside of the joystick shaft, around the top of the where the folds in the rubber begin. Make sure you’ve already reinserted the cut toggle piece before you apply the glue. Insert the tip of the vibrator body and push it up slightly into the shaft of the joystick. Keep this piece inverted while it dries (we set ours upside down inside a drinking glass). Support the attached wires and parts as necessary so the vibrator doesn’t get pulled out of upright position.

Step 7: Positioning the switch

Once the joystick dries, you can think about getting the switch into position. First, use the utility knife to cut away the rubber covering over the vibrator click switch. This will reveal a small, square plastic post inside. Take the spring from the original orange controller button and slip it over the post. It fits very nicely and will keep the button lined up on top of the switch.

Getting the switch positioned just right is a bit tricky, so do a test run first. Put the switch in position in the corner of the case that you cleared out earlier. The wires should (obviously) be pointing out toward the center of the case. Make sure that the wires are situated in their notches and flush, and nothing else is impeding the switch sitting level on the bottom of the case. Get all the wires inside the case so you’ll be able to close it. Don’t worry at this point about firing it up.

Set the orange button on top of the switch by putting its center post into the top of the spring. It should stay in place, more or less. Carefully set the upper half of the controller case on top of the bottom, positioning the vibrator/joystick over the center post and guiding the orange button into its cylinder, making sure it stays lined up with the vibrator switch and inside the spring. Test the movement of the button by pressing and releasing it. If the controller button is lined up and able to move freely, the center post of the button should press down on the vibrator switch and engage and disengage it with each click. If it isn’t lining up or is getting stuck, check to see if something is getting in the way of the vibrator switch centering beneath the button. If the button keeps getting stuck, or isn’t coming up all the way to release the switch, you may have to shave more off the bottom of the cylinder around it to give the button a greater range of vertical motion.

Once you’ve gotten the button and switch to line up so they work smoothly and reliably, you’ll need to glue the switch unit into place. Squeeze out a circle of silicone sealant approximately where the switch is going to rest. Place the switch in the glue and press into position, then put the button on top of it and reassemble the case as you just did when you were testing it. When you get the button and switch lined up so they work smoothly, put some pressure on the button (not too much or you’ll break the switch) and hold it in place long enough for the sealant to set. We suggest leaving the case together until the switch dries completely.

Step 8: The final contact

When the switch has dried, you can move on to securing the final piece of wiring, the positive battery contact. This will sit on top of the sawed-off center post in the middle of the controller case. Bend the battery contact at a 90 degree angle. The end part should be as small as possible. This part is going on top of the post and will have contact with the batteries. The rest of the contact and the wire will lay vertically along the side of the post, against the flat surface on the side of the post where you whittled the ribs off. Use a glob of silicone sealant on the top and side of the post to glue down the battery contact and wire. Set something on top of it if necessary to keep it in place while it dries.

Step 9: Case closed
After the glue has dried, make sure the top of the battery contact is clear and clean and if necessary, cut away any dry silicone residue that might be in the way. In order to make sure the battery contact doesn’t accidentally touch the outside of the vibrator case (which would complete a circuit and turn it on unintentionally), we inserted a collar of thin cardboard around the inside of the battery chamber.

Now the case is ready to put together. Place the button in its cylinder in
the top of the case and hold it in place from the top as you guide its
post into place on top of the switch. At the same time, position the body
of the vibrator (in the joystick) so it presses down onto the battery
contact in the center of the case. Close the case completely and make sure
that the orange button is operating smoothly, turning the switch and the
vibrator on and off. Replace the four screws in the bottom of the case.

AND YOUR DONE! pretty lengthy I know:) but id say it was worth it as a gag in the first place. Hand it off to a friend start up a game there about it get in to a nice game of pong or space invaders and they get a surprising BUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ. Then you can take it one step further by screaming WHAT THE FUCK ARE YOU DOING HOLDING MY VIBRATOR YOU SICK FUCK then beating them repeatedly? Does that sound like fun? I think so!!   read

2:30 PM on 07.12.2007

Ironic Dreamcast and Guitars refrence goes here...

Well I did it...I finally fucking finished...This is better then a Blood, Sweat, And Tears reunion!
I made my dream guitar...

A dream cast guitar...

It took about a week to make.
I popped my soldering cherry with this guitar also lost my jigsaw virginity. bwahahaha.
Theres only 3 strings becase the others broke DONT GIVE ME SHIT FOR IT!
Also I hear guys dig chicks with soldering iron burns.

Well Thats all, this is my first post so it probably looks and reads like shit but ya what can you do?   read

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