I recently felt the need to replace the ailing buttons and joystick on my Hori Fighting Stick EX2, so I got the required materials and did so. Following the instructions
here and
here, I went about the task. What I did was replaced all of the original Hori buttons with Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons, colors yellow, orange, and vermillion and the joystick with a Sanwa JLF-TP-8T joystick. The end result is a much snappier feeling joystick, without buttons that stick when you press them. Also, Zangief (drawn by Gabe of Penny Arcade, scanned from Street Fighter Tribute).
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I haven't had the need to mod my stick just yet, but I am considering getting another one so I can put my own faceplate on it (I like the Soul Calibur IV Design too much to see it go)
Really cool looking.
This was actually my first soldering job ever. Had some help from a friend to show me the basics of soldering, and the rest was pretty easy... except for realizing that I bought a stick that really isn't compatible and had to hack lots of things off to make it work. Recommendations are to buy a Seimitsu LS-33, which has a smaller shaft, I think. I spent about 5 hours tonight just getting the Sanwa JLF in there and hitting all the switches reliably, without scraping on the bottom plate.
Hopefully your soldering holds up.
and that Zangief pic is win. This coming from a man who doesn't even play him
I can't stand playing him either. But itemforty convinced me to use that pic since its not "just another anime picture" like most everything else I found. Also, it cracks me up just about every time I see it.
I wish they had enough room to house a perfect 360, because those are the best and most epic joysticks known to man.
@Atlas: The large red-breasted Zangief is mainly known to inhabit russia, where it kills and eats grizzlies; But it has been know to migrate over the entire planet handing out ass-whoopings.
Out of curiosity, how'd you solve the issue with the JLF using a common ground on the harness and the EX2 using individual grounds for the joystick? Did you cut the ground traces on the JLF and just wire each ground to each microswitch instead of to the common one on the harness?