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About Me

Alright, basic intro:

I was born in 1984, which means I grew up just a tad late to be an Atari front runner (still got one and played the shit outta it) but I did get to grow up with Nintendo. I've bought every Nintendo console on release day (Wii included, 32 hours outside of Wal-mart).

I'm a "hardcore gamer" but I detest the term and I won't fit into any damn mold! I LOVE retro games, and I think 90% of the shit on the game market right now isn't worth the time or money I'd have to spend to burn those shitty studios that make these games to the ground.

I hate the fact that the FPS genre has become so flooded it's hard to find anything good and not WWII, and I think the last good FPS was Half-life 2 (HL2+Source+Bioshock WTF PWN ALL).

I've been PC gaming since I was 3

Shit I've bought:

Nintendo - NES, SNES, Gameboy, Gameboy Pocket, Gameboy Color, N64, Game Boy Color, GB Advance (+SP), Virtual Boy (fun ass system imo), Gamecube, GB Micro (was a gift, I prolly wouldn't have bought one), DS, DS Lite, Wii.

Sony - Playstation, Playstation 2 (3 of em so far), PSone. Gonna buy a PS3 only if it's under $300, and a PSP when it's cheaper.

M$ - Winblows 3.1 up to Vista Ultimate (I bit the bullet and got Vista when I built my latest PC), Xbox. Gonna buy a 360 when the revamped 65nm version is down under $300.

The first computer I gamed on:
Name: IBM Personal Computer 5150
Processor: Intel 8088 @ 4.77 MHz (A beast!)
Memory: 64 KiB
Hard Drive: Ehhh... Nope.
Network card: Hehe... nope.
Keyboard: "Compared to the keyboards of other small computers, the IBM PC keyboard is the Rolls-Royce." Real quote from a review back in the day!
Monitor: 8" CGA graphic mode; 320 x 200 resolution.

My Current PC:
MB: ASUS P5N32-E NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI
Proc: Intel Quad Core Q6600
RAM: 4Gbs of Patriot Extreme Performance DDR2 800
VidCard: 2x (SLI'ed) EVGA 320-P2-N815-AR GeForce 8800GTS 320MB

My Backup Computer:
MB: MSI K8T Neo,
Proc: AMD64 2100+ w/ 1mb L2 Cache
RAM: 2Gb DDR 400
VidCard: Nvidia Geforce 7800 GS, 512 Mb

Gamer Profile

3DS friend code:
Steam:
Battle:
PSN:
Mii:
Gamertag: NyteShadeIT

Following (7)

How to identify your Wii's drive! Help everyone see if SSBB will work before buying! Nyteshade | 2:36 PM on 03.09.2008 24 comments

Since I just went though the deep emotional pain of buying Super Smash Bros Brawl and having my Wii error out reading it, I thought I'd do some matlockery and see if I could pinpoint the serial numbers that seems to be having problems. My friend stood in the same line as me when we waited for lauch Wiis and bought them right after each other. Now his Wii is playing SSBB without a problem, and mine won't even see the disc. Since we all know "dust" isn't causing this problem, and that SSBB is on a dual-layer disc, it must be hardware. I found a nice site called WiiTracker which allows you to find out the most likely hardware setup your Wii has, by your serial number. I've only had 3 systems to test so far, but using this site, we should be able to build a list from those of us that have Wiis. The first three characters in your serial identify the major revisions: LU1 = First production run, no longer produced LU3 = Second run, no longer produced, still may be on shelves LU5 = Most recent model, in production and on shelves According to what I've read, all LU3 and LU5 models will have no problems running SSBB, the problem is related to LU1's only. UPDATE: Now we have a non-reading LU3 too! Here are the three serials I've tested so far and their results (not putting up the full serials just in case): Serial Number----------Drive chip-------SSBB Status: LU1's LU10231****--------GC2-DMS-------Not reading SSBB LU10222****--------GC2-DMS-------Not reading SSBB LU10123****--------GC2-D2B--------Reading SSBB LU10236****--------GC2-D2B--------Reading SSBB LU3's LU30373****--------GC2-DMS--------Reading SSBB LU30633****--------GC2-DMS--------Not reading If you own a Wii + SSBB and want to help out, just visit WiiTracker, enter your serial number (bottom/side of Wii), then just post the drive chip and if SSBB runs or errors. I'm not positive the drive chip is tied into this problem, but if nothing else it's an easy way to identify the different hardware revisions.